In Ticino, “red wine” almost always means Merlot. It arrived at the beginning of the twentieth century, after phylloxera had destroyed many vineyards, and today it is the most widely grown grape in the canton. Yet one grape makes very different wines.
The Merlots in our cellar
- Young Merlot, in the boccalino. Fresh and fruity, for drinking without thinking too hard.
- Merlot aged in large casks. Rounder, with a little more body.
- Merlot riserva. From hillside vineyards, more structured, it stands up to rich dishes.
- Merlot bianco. Merlot grapes pressed straight away, without the skins: the result is a fresh, dry white, a speciality of the region.
- Merlot rosato. The skins stay in contact with the juice only briefly: pale colour, light taste.
The list also has Bondola, a historic Ticino grape that makes a light red, good with cured meats.
What with what
| Dish | Merlot |
|---|---|
| Cured meats, formaggini, minestrone | young, in the boccalino, or Bondola |
| Risotto, braised rabbit, polenta with mushrooms | aged in large casks |
| Polenta with braised beef, game, aged alpine cheese | riserva |
| Fresh formaggini, lake fish, vitello tonnato | Merlot bianco |
| Afternoon snack in the courtyard, fish in carpione | rosato |
Our rule is simple: light dish, light wine; rich dish, structured wine. Beef braised for hours in wine flattens a young Merlot; a riserva drowns a fresh formaggino.
At what temperature
- Young Merlot: 14–16 °C. It leaves the cellar a little cooler and reaches the right temperature in the tazzina within minutes.
- Cask-aged Merlot and riserva: 16–18 °C. Any warmer and the alcohol shows too much.
- Merlot bianco and rosato: 8–10 °C.
- Sparkling wine: 6–8 °C.
In summer, in the courtyard, a red at 25 degrees is a tired red. That is why the boccalino comes straight from the cellar.
And with dessert?
Merlot zabaglione goes well with a glass of the wine it is made with. To finish, a Merlot grappa, in small measures.
If in doubt, ask the staff: we will tell you what is open and what goes with what you ordered.